Seven train journeys worth the detour
Not just the Ella loop. A field guide to the island's most underrated rail routes, compiled from a very patient year of Sunday riding.
Full essay in progressLong-form notes from our trip designers and guides — when to go, what we've been eating, and the quieter corners we're routing travellers through this season.
Priyanka on why your first 48 hours in Sri Lanka shouldn't be in the capital — and the three half-day routes she actually recommends for travellers with a tight first morning.
Not just the Ella loop. A field guide to the island's most underrated rail routes, compiled from a very patient year of Sunday riding.
Full essay in progressOur lead guide Amara on where to find the island's best chopped-roti, from late-night Colombo to a Jaffna stall she swore us not to name.
Full essay in progressWhy Wilpattu quietly beats Yala — a naturalist's case for our second-most-visited but least-crowded park.
Full essay in progressA month-by-month breakdown. The short answer: the island has two coasts and two monsoons — so one of them is always in season.
Full essay in progressTwelve books, three films and one out-of-print memoir our trip designers send to travellers ahead of their first visit.
Full essay in progressA first-hand run through all 22 stages of Sri Lanka's new long-distance walking trail — with honest notes on which to skip.
Full essay in progressThree generations, one workshop, and the quiet case for visiting a trade that probably won't be here in twenty years.
Full essay in progressThe window (mid-Dec to early Apr), the boats we'd put you on, and the ones we very much wouldn't.
Full essay in progressA primer for first-timers. Ten pols sambols, seven dhals, and why nobody in this office agrees on any of it.
Full essay in progress